Self-made
didgeridoos are fast becoming the ultimate souvenir for European
backpackers as travel writer Tony Walsh discovered when he joined a group
in the bush west of Rockhampton.
Story by Tony Walsh
"They are more Aussie
than a kangaroo, and better still, you can take it home with you,"
exclaimed Lina Fasth, 19 of Sweden as she put the finishing touch of paint
to her didge under the watchful eye of Aboriginal artist, Dennis Fisher in
the paint shed at the Woorabinda Aboriginal Community.
The quest by the four packpackers for the holy grail of Australian
mementos had started earlier in the day with a wake-up call from 'Didge'
Verity one of the hired hands at Namoi Hills cattle station, a 130 square
kilometre property near the whistlestop town of Dingo.
Current owners of the property, Scott and Sally Park will tell you that
they got into the tourism industry through basic necessity. Parts of the
huge spread, which was an original stopover on the old wagon route from
the coast to the western regions of Queensland in the late 1800's have
been in drought for the past five years. So other means, apart from
raising cattle, had to be found to keep it viable.
"When Oz Experience coaches started a few years back to provide a
flexible means for backpackers to travel up the coast from Sydney to
Cairns and so avoid having to hitch- hike, we offered to provide a
stopover on the inland section between Rockhampton and the Whitsundays and
also give the overseas visitors a taste of the real Australia," Scott
said.
"Now we get something like 14,000 passengers through here each year
with Oz as well as others from express coach services and self-drive cars
and motorbikes."
Scott and his team offer the true Aussie experience station tours,
overnight horse riding camp-outs and sapphire mining at the nearby Central
Queensland gemfields. But the most popular is the day trip to Woorabinda
and the chance to cut and paint your own didgeridoo. This tour has grown
into an outstanding cultural awareness project between Woorabinda
Walkabout Tours and Namoi Hills.
After a hearty bush breakfast including billy tea, 'Didge' called his
adventurers aboard the air-conditioned bus for the hour-long drive to the
Aboriginal settlement where Brian Fisher and his nephew Dennis were
waiting by the main street of the 3000 strong community. They too climbed
aboard holding a sharpened axe (real men don't use chainsaws) and after
introductions, 'Didge' took a dusty road in search of the yellow box trees
suitable in height and with white ant infestation, necessary for future
use as a didgeridoo.
The trees are still alive when the white ants begin their attack on the
inner core and gradually hollow out the inside to a circumstance of around
three or four centimetres.
For some visitors, this is their first experience in walking through the
Australian bush and they hold on every word as Brian and Dennis explain
the benefits of bush medicine and tucker.
On locating the right tree, Dennis swiftly felled the 10 cm diameter trunk
and then asked if the final instrument should have a high or low pitch. He
explained that the longer the didge the deeper the sound. The preferred
length on this outing was 1.5 to 2 metres.
When all the backpackers had been satisfied with a piece of raw timber
trunk, Brian and Dennis lead them back to the bus for some smoko. They
then started the work of cutting back the bark with an adze, followed by
sanding the yellow box timber till it was smooth. Brian explained that
because the termites have eaten out the inside of the wood in an uneven
manner, the sound would have a drone tone but this could be manipulated by
vibrating the lips very slowly.
On the trip back to the settlement, excited chatter, in English and in
foreign languages highlighted the challenge ahead and the satisfaction
already gained from this special indigenous experience,
"How long will it take to learn to play this thing and what a
surprise it will be to all my friends back home when I rock up with a
didgeridoo I made myself," remarked Lina Fasth of Sweden as she
rolled her raw didge in her hands.
In the paint shed a welcome lunch was devoured before the creativity of
each person was released through brush, and paint to give each didge a
personal touch. Though most of the backpackers opted for hands-on
assistance from Dennis Fisher to get the finished job just right. Finally,
bees wax was applied to the mouth end and a clear sealant painted over the
instrument before Brian and Dennis gave the finished job their nod of
approval.
For the backpackers, then began the task of mastering the resultant
musical instrument. But that's another story.
Getting there :
Coach Oz Experience coaches travel direct to Namoi Hills eight times a
week. McCafferty Coaches have daily services to Dingo. ( Phone ahead for
free transfer to Namoi Hills. )
Selfdrive : Follow the Capricorn Highway 160km west from
Rockhampton. Phone for directions
Rail : There is a rail service to Dingo.
All reservations for the Woorabinda Aboriginal Didgeridoo Day Trip must be
made through Namoi Hills. Ph Aust +61 7 4935 9121 Fax Aust +61 7 4935
9239. 24 hour notice is required.
Contact : Capricorn Tourism and Development Bureau
Ph Aust +61 7 4927 2055
